The North Shore Three-Way: Boston’s Sacred Sandwich
Let’s start with what food lovers in the know consider the holy grail of roast beef sandwiches. Kelly’s Roast Beef claims to be the “Home of the Original 3-Way Roast Beef Sandwich,” with their classic sandwich featuring James River BBQ sauce, mayonnaise, and a slice of Land O’Lakes White American Cheese. The modern roast beef sandwich is thought to have been born in Revere at Kelly’s in 1951 – on a whim – after a whole roast beef, leftover from a cancelled wedding, was sliced thin and served up plain on bread at their hot dog stand. What started as an accident became Massachusetts culinary legend.
The North Shore has an obsession with the roast beef sandwich, and there’s even an influential Facebook group that reviews them. During a peak month, one restaurant can sell over 20,000 sandwiches. The defining characteristic here isn’t just the meat – it’s the specific combination of condiments that creates the perfect flavor balance. The combination of these three components is called the “three-way”, and locals know exactly what they’re getting when they order one.
The Modern Butcher: Where Lines Form Before Dawn
The Modern Butcher recently ranked as the number one roast beef shop in a local Facebook group dedicated to these sandwiches. The Modern Butcher only does beef sandwiches on Saturdays, and those beef sandwiches sell out early, with people arriving in downtown Danvers, MA at around 9:30am on a Saturday in early March, over an hour before Modern Butcher opened for the day, to find themselves already 10th in line or so. By the time they opened, the line was around the block.
This isn’t just hype – the dedication of customers speaks volumes about the quality. Many of those before and behind us seemed to be regulars, and having tried the sandwich, I can attest that if I lived in the area I would regularly be waiting in line on a Saturday morning as well. When a sandwich makes people plan their entire weekend around it, you know it’s something special.
Al’s Italian Beef: The Chicago Original
While Boston perfected the roast beef sandwich with its three-way creation, Chicago developed something entirely different yet equally magnificent. Legend has it that Al’s invented the Italian beef in 1938, and Al’s has been the sandwich of Chicago for 83 years, a true food icon, winner of over 150 culinary & critic awards, and has become a destination for people from across the world. This isn’t just another roast beef sandwich – it’s a completely different beast altogether.
Traditionally the sandwich is either ordered “sweet” with grilled or boiled bell peppers, or “hot” with spicy giardiniera. The sandwich can also be topped with cheese (mozzarella, provolone, or cheddar cheese) which is growing in popularity. The completed sandwich is then traditionally dunked in juices before serving. The Italian beef represents the perfect marriage of immigrant resourcefulness and Chicago swagger.
Mr. Beef: The Bear’s Real-Life Inspiration
Sometimes life imitates art, and sometimes art imitates incredibly delicious sandwiches. Mr. Beef. This iconic River North shop is the inspiration behind The Bear, and despite the show’s popularity, still has a no-nonsense vibe and isn’t filled with tourists. It’s a cash-only spot with politely impatient service, and a sparse dining room with a communal table where you can befriend someone who’s been eating here for decades.
The popularity boost from the television show has been undeniable. By the 1980s, the sandwich was ubiquitous throughout Chicago and celebrities such as Neil Diamond and Jay Leno reportedly enjoyed the sandwich. Still, the sandwich was mostly unknown outside the city until the release of The Bear in 2022. Restaurants across the U.S. reported a surge in demand for the sandwich in the months following the premiere of the show. What was once a local secret became a national obsession practically overnight.
Bella’s in North Andover: Social Media Success Story
In today’s digital age, even roast beef sandwiches can go viral. Harry Kanellos, owner of Bella’s in North Andover, said customers are consistently coming in because they heard about their roast beef sandwich in the group. “They have definitely brought my shop to a new level,” Kanellos, who opened Bella’s seven years ago, said. Between my personal Facebook, the restaurant’s Facebook, and the roast beef group, it’s insane. We grow every day.” In a recent ranking of roast beef shops on the group’s page, Bella’s came in at No. 2.
This demonstrates how traditional foods can find new audiences through modern platforms. The combination of old-school sandwich making with new-school marketing has created a perfect storm of success for establishments willing to embrace both tradition and innovation.
Jersey Mike’s Chain Excellence
Not all great roast beef comes from independent shops. I recently sampled the roast beef sandwiches from five popular chains, ranging from all-around deli authorities like Jersey Mike’s and Potbelly to the roast beef specialists at Arby’s. Jersey Mike’s has earned its reputation by focusing on quality ingredients and proper preparation methods that don’t cut corners just because they’re part of a larger operation.
Chain restaurants face unique challenges when it comes to roast beef sandwiches – maintaining consistency across locations while preserving the artisanal quality that makes these sandwiches special. Jersey Mike’s has managed to strike this balance better than most, proving that scale doesn’t have to mean sacrificing quality.
Defonte’s in Brooklyn: Century-Old Excellence
Defonte’s was started by an Italian immigrant almost a century ago, so it’s about as old-school as you can get. Their hot roast beef sandwich is stuffed full of shaved rare roast beef, fresh melty mozzarella cheese slices, and the shop’s specialty: fried eggplant slices. This represents the Italian-American approach to the roast beef sandwich – taking the basic concept and elevating it with Mediterranean flavors and techniques.
The longevity of Defonte’s speaks to something important about great sandwich shops: they don’t change much over the decades. When you find a winning formula, especially one that’s been tested by nearly a century of customers, you stick with it. The combination of tradition, quality ingredients, and time-tested techniques creates something that simply can’t be replicated by newer establishments trying to shortcut their way to success.
Tommy DiNic’s: Reading Terminal Market Legend
Tommy Dinic’s, Reading Terminal Market The sign above Dinic’s stall in Reading Terminal reads “pork and beef,” and that’s all they serve. Top your sandwich with roasted peppers, provolone or greens if you like, but here, it’s all about the meat. Sometimes simplicity is the ultimate sophistication, and DiNic’s proves this principle in spades.
Located in one of America’s most famous food markets, DiNic’s has to compete with dozens of other food vendors for customer attention. The fact that they’ve not only survived but thrived in this environment by focusing purely on meat quality speaks volumes about their approach. When you’re surrounded by every cuisine imaginable, the only way to stand out is to be absolutely exceptional at one thing.
Pete’s Champion Status
Sometimes awards and recognition tell the whole story. Great roast beef, super rare, awesome tangy bbq sauce, perfect crispy bun. Reason why it’s the 2024 beef champion. Being named a champion in the competitive Boston-area roast beef scene isn’t something that happens by accident – it requires perfection in every element from the meat preparation to the final assembly.
Place is tiny, so I’m sure takeout is how they do business. The sandwich had very fresh, moist, and flavorful roast beef on it. I cannot imagine how it would taste when it’s fresh!! Even when the sandwich isn’t at its absolute peak, it still delivers an exceptional experience. This consistency across all conditions separates great sandwich shops from merely good ones.
The Patio’s Legendary Combo
This Taylor Street grease joint is a favorite of 12th District locals, which is always a good sign. The Italian beef might be the best in the neighborhood (and according to some, maybe in the entire city). The Patio’s combo – an Italian beef and sausage smushed into a giant bun – is nothing short of legendary. When local law enforcement considers your sandwich the best in their district, you know you’re doing something right.
A meal at the Patio is sure to raise your cholesterol levels by a few points, but it’s definitely worth it. Sometimes the best foods aren’t the healthiest ones, and The Patio embraces this philosophy completely. This isn’t health food – it’s soul food that happens to involve roast beef and makes no apologies for its indulgent nature.
