Tracing Back to Pagan Festivities (Image Credits: Pixabay)
New Orleans – A tiny plastic figurine tucked inside ring-shaped pastries has fueled spirited discussions across the Crescent City during the Carnival season stretching from Three Kings’ Day to Fat Tuesday.
Tracing Back to Pagan Festivities
The practice of hiding objects in cakes predates Christianity by centuries. Romans during Saturnalia festivals concealed fava beans in pastries to select a mock king, symbolizing luck and revelry.[1][2]
Early Christians repurposed the custom for Epiphany, linking it to the three wise men’s visit to the infant Jesus. French settlers carried this galette des rois tradition to Louisiana in the 18th century. Bakers initially used beans, pecans, or coins until modern shifts occurred.
A Salesman’s Pitch Changes Everything
In the 1970s, McKenzie’s Pastry Shoppes pioneered the baby figurine after a salesman pitched small porcelain dolls known as frozen Charlottes. These proved practical, less prone to loss than nuts.[1]
Costs soon prompted a switch to plastic versions, which proliferated. Donald Entringer Sr., the shop’s longtime owner, later reflected in a 1990 interview, “I’ve heard people say it’s supposed to represent the Christ Child, but that’s not true. Why we picked this, I don’t know. It was cute. It was just a trinket that happened to be a baby.”[1] This origin story underscores commercial influences over strict religious intent.
New Orleanians Weigh In on the Symbolism
Opinions split sharply along historical, cultural, and personal lines. Liz Williams, founder of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, captured the divide: “Many here are certain the baby is meant to symbolize the baby Jesus, while others think that premise is ridiculous. It’s the kind of debate that can only happen in New Orleans.”[1]
Baker Vincent Scelfo of Joe Gambino’s Bakery embraced the religious tie, noting, “Mardi Gras is a Christian holiday and so is Twelfth Night. Twelfth Night is the day that the three kings found baby Jesus, so wouldn’t it make sense that the baby in the cake symbolizes Christ?” His father, Sam Scelfo, countered with a pragmatic view: “It’s a great example of a story that has grown stronger in the telling.”[1]
- Kelly Jacques of Ayu Bakehouse rejects the Jesus link, pointing to pagan bean origins predating Christ.
- Robert Harrison of Loretta’s Authentic Pralines uses Black figurines to highlight his business’s identity, stating traditions evolve and mean different things to different people.
- In Mexico, the figurine unequivocally represents baby Jesus in rosca de reyes cakes.
Bakers Reinvent the Tradition
Local artisans adapt the baby amid health concerns and creativity. Dong Phuong Bakery orders 72,000 plastic babies yearly, with president Linh Tran Garza stressing, “Don’t forget the baby. People get really mad if you forget the baby.”[1]
Ayu Bakehouse opts for edible bean-shaped charms made of gum paste. Levee Baking Co. embeds French ceramic fèves. These choices honor roots while minimizing plastic risks.
| Bakery | Baby Style |
|---|---|
| Dong Phuong | Plastic (72,000 ordered) |
| Ayu Bakehouse | Edible bean charm |
| Loretta’s | Black plastic |
| Levee Baking Co. | Ceramic fève |
Key Takeaways
- The baby tradition evolved from ancient Roman beans to modern plastic trinkets.
- No universal agreement exists on its symbolism in New Orleans.
- Finding it traditionally means hosting the next cake or party.
The king cake baby endures as a symbol of New Orleans’ blend of faith, history, and festivity, its meaning as layered and debated as the city itself. What do you think it represents? Tell us in the comments.
