From Jam Jars to National Fame (Image Credits: Pixabay)
Virgil Village, Los Angeles – Sqirl launched its long-awaited dinner service on February 19, extending the reach of its ingredient-driven cuisine into the evening hours.[1][2]
From Jam Jars to National Fame
Sqirl opened its doors in 2012 under chef and owner Jessica Koslow, transforming a modest 800-square-foot space into a cornerstone of Los Angeles dining. The restaurant quickly gained renown for its vegetable-forward grain bowls, crispy rice salads, and signature ricotta toast topped with house-made jam, drawing long lines and inspiring a wave of all-day cafes across the city.[3][2]
Koslow, with a background in fine-dining pastry, emphasized fermentation techniques and seasonal California produce from the start. Items like sorrel pesto rice and latke tots became staples, turning Sqirl into a status symbol where a jar of jam in the fridge signaled culinary savvy. Over the years, the spot refined its identity while maintaining counter service and sidewalk seating during breakfast and lunch.[3]
Navigating JamGate and Operational Hurdles
In early 2020, Sqirl faced severe backlash during what became known as JamGate. Former employees highlighted issues including a photo of moldy jam preserves, questions over recipe credits, and allegations of unsafe kitchen practices, sparking widespread criticism and debates about gentrification in Virgil Village.[1][3]
Koslow issued apologies and implemented changes, such as stricter production guidelines for the restaurant’s 40,000 annual jam jars and greater recognition of collaborators on social media. The scandal shifted public attention temporarily, but brunch crowds returned. Plans for dinner service, envisioned from the outset, encountered further delays from the pandemic, wildfires, staffing shortages, and liquor licensing challenges resolved only in late 2024.[2][1]
Multitasking on Opening Night
Even as Sqirl served its inaugural dinner guests, Koslow traveled an hour west to Venice for an event at millennial cookware brand Our Place. There, she promoted Marianne’s avocado oil and beef tallow while demonstrating bites of buttery beet agnolotti from the new menu and tossing popcorn in a pot.[1]
When questioned about nerves ahead of the debut, Koslow replied simply, “I’m just tired,” before heading back to the restaurant around 9 p.m. Reservations, managed via Resy for parties up to six, replaced the daytime lines, signaling a more structured evening experience.[2]
An Inventive Evening Menu Takes Shape
The dinner offerings blend bistro classics with Sqirl’s fermentation hallmarks and local ingredients, priced around $120 per person. Executive sous chef Guillermo Mendez and chef de cuisine Sandra Felix contributed dishes reflecting Mexican influences alongside Koslow’s California vision.[2][1]
Highlights include:
- Beet agnolotti with sweet-savory-smoky notes.
- Koji-cured half roast chicken served with bagna cauda and Swiss chard panzanella.
- Chicken liver parfait with celery butter and quince vinegar on Tehachapi Country Toast.
- Caesar salad featuring croissant croutons.
- Kombu-aged black cod with dill whey butter and trout roe.
- Bread service with fermented Jimmy Nardello butter and chile jam.
These plates maintain Sqirl’s focus on sustainability and market-fresh produce without overhauling the core philosophy.[3]
Positive Early Reception Fuels Optimism
Critics and diners have praised the expansion. A recent review noted the food stands as strong as ever, with inventive touches like borscht-inflected agnolotti playing to Sqirl’s strengths. Chefs such as Jeremy Fox hailed it among their best recent meals, while others spotlighted chorizo-shrimp stuffed squids as a standout.[1][3]
The addition integrates seamlessly with busy daytime service, reaffirming Sqirl’s enduring appeal in a competitive scene.
Key Takeaways
- Sqirl’s dinner service overcame years of delays to debut successfully on February 19.
- Post-JamGate reforms emphasize collaboration and quality control.
- The menu showcases fermentation and seasonal innovation true to the restaurant’s roots.
Sqirl’s pivot to evenings underscores resilience and growth, proving that exceptional food can bridge past controversies. What are your thoughts on Sqirl’s next chapter? Share in the comments.
