The cult of New England Chinese food – Image for illustrative purposes only (Image credits: Unsplash)
Scorpion Bowls topped with umbrellas and flaming Pu Pu Platters draw crowds at Chinese restaurants across New England’s six states. These dishes, featuring chicken fingers, wings, spare ribs, and teriyaki skewers around a flickering Sterno flame, represent more than just takeout. They embody a regional tradition that locals cherish deeply, one that has fostered online communities and even nationwide shipping services. For many, this Americanized style of Chinese food evokes irreplaceable memories.
The Distinctive Dishes That Captivate Locals
Pu Pu Platters stand as a menu cornerstone in New England Chinese eateries. Diners flock to them for the communal spectacle of shared appetizers heated over a blue flame. Chicken wings, spare ribs, and teriyaki skewers join chicken fingers in this platter, creating a greasy, satisfying ritual perfect for weekends.
Other staples include beef teriyaki with its slight sweetness, house lo mein in greasy cartons, and duck sauce – a tangy, sweet-and-sour condiment unique to the area. Shrimp with lobster sauce and chow mein near shopping hubs like the Natick Mall also draw raves. These items differ markedly from Chinese food elsewhere, blending familiarity with bold adaptations.
A Booming Community of Enthusiasts
The New England Chinese Food Support Group on Facebook boasts 21,000 members. Participants post photos of takeout hauls, debate the best shrimp with lobster sauce, and recommend spots for authentic chow mein. This online hub reflects the cuisine’s grip on the region.
Admin Mark Ross highlighted the passion involved. “New England Chinese food is unlike ‘Chinese food’ served elsewhere in the nation. It has a devoted and loyal fan base,” he noted. Members organize meetups and social events, turning nostalgia into shared experiences. The group’s reach underscores how this food transcends mere meals.
Delivering Nostalgia Nationwide
Jim Lawlor started Bamboos Nation Interstate in 2023 to serve expats missing these flavors. About 40% of the Facebook group’s members had relocated, craving beef teriyaki, lo mein, and duck sauce. His service now ships hundreds of orders from favorites like Golden Temple in Brookline and Fantasy Island in Salem.
Lawlor described the emotional pull. “We are not just providing delicious New England Chinese food; we are connecting people to the memories they cherish from their childhood,” he said. Requests sometimes come from those nearing life’s end, seeking one final taste. Even recipients in places like Florida convert after trying pork fried rice or boneless ribs.
Historical Roots in Regional Tastes
Boston’s large Irish and Italian populations shaped this cuisine when Chinese immigrants arrived. Chefs adapted recipes to local preferences, incorporating heartier fillings and familiar names. Joyce Chen, for instance, developed Peking ravioli with meatier contents, dubbing it “ravioli” to resonate with Italian influences.
Jason Doo, chef and owner of Wusong Road in Cambridge, grew up in his family’s Malden restaurant. He spent after-school hours cleaning tables or playing darts with regulars. Local ingredients like lobster and molasses contributed to the darker, sweeter profiles. Doo credits these elements for the cuisine’s one-of-a-kind status.
Landmark Restaurants and Timeless Appeal
Kowloon in Saugus, Massachusetts, epitomizes the tiki-themed icons of the scene. Operating over 75 years off Route 1, it serves Scorpion Bowls and egg rolls alongside alcohol-fueled spectacles. Owner Bob Wong explained the evolutions.
“When my parents opened the restaurant in the 1950s, the taste buds of America were unfamiliar with the authentic tastes of China, so it was adapted to the palate of the customers,” Wong said. Polynesian trends in the 1960s and 1970s added chicken fingers and barbecue wings. He views it as comfort food, akin to meatloaf or spaghetti, rooted in upbringing. This enduring love keeps the tradition alive for generations.
New England’s Chinese food thrives as a cultural touchstone, blending adaptation, nostalgia, and community. Its fans, from local regulars to far-flung transplants, ensure these flavors persist. In a nation of diverse palates, this regional variant holds a special, unwavering place.
