What Makes Food Forbidden?
Picture this: you’re sitting at a dinner table in France, and your host places a tiny bird in front of you. Not just any bird – one that’s been force-fed until it’s three times its normal size, then drowned in brandy. Welcome to the world of food taboos and delicacies, where what’s considered a treasured meal in one culture can be absolutely horrifying in another. While many people wouldn’t even dream of eating most of them, some regions find them to be a delicious, rare delicacy. Whether it’s because these items are officially banned, are sourced from endangered animals, require unsavory practices, or something else, the number of controversial foods may surprise you. The line between taboo and delicacy often depends on your passport, not your palate. Whether it’s because of religion, conservation or because of less obvious social rationales, we love to divide ourselves over which ingredients we would add to the pot. Foods that are now considered taboo were once foods that were consumed because they were affordable and easy to access through fishing, hunting, trapping or gathering.
Casu Marzu: The Cheese That Moves
Casu martzu, sometimes spelled casu marzu, and also called casu modde, casu cundĂdu and casu frĂ zigu in Sardinian, is a traditional Sardinian sheep milk cheese that contains live insect larvae (maggots). Don’t let the name fool you – this “rotten cheese” is actually a carefully crafted delicacy that takes months to perfect. Casu martzu is created by leaving whole pecorino cheeses outside with part of the rind removed to allow the eggs of the cheese fly Piophila casei to be laid in the cheese. A female P. casei can lay more than 500 eggs at one time. The eggs hatch and the larvae begin to eat through the cheese. The acid from the maggots’ digestive system breaks down the cheese’s fats, making the texture of the cheese very soft; by the time it is ready for consumption, a typical casu martzu will contain thousands of these maggots. The cheese is served when the maggots are still alive – because dead maggots mean the cheese has gone bad. Because the larvae in the cheese can launch themselves distances up to 15 centimetres (6 in) when disturbed, diners hold their hands above the sandwich to prevent the maggots from leaping. Due to these risks, Italian authorities have banned the sale of this cheese, deeming it dangerous. Consequently, it is also prohibited across the European Union, as EU food safety regulations mandate that only food safe for consumption can be sold.
Fugu: Russian Roulette on a Plate
Imagine ordering dinner knowing there’s a chance it could be your last meal. That’s the thrill behind fugu, Japan’s deadly pufferfish delicacy. Fugu, or pufferfish, may be a delicacy in Japan, but poison that inherently exists in its organs makes it dangerous, as well. The FDA warns that fugu “may contain the potent and deadly toxins tetrodotoxin and/or saxitoxin which can cause severe illness and death. These are central nervous system toxins and are more deadly than cyanide.” If you want to enjoy fugu, it needs to be handled and prepared with abundant caution so as to avoid consuming the toxins within. This is serious, too — it’s not like you can learn to do it at home. It requires a talented chef who executes careful, exacting skills and an extremely high level of attention to detail while preparing the unique fish. Compared to other white fish, fugu is less fatty. It also has more umami components, leading to a decadent, delicious taste. The fact that it could kill you is part of the appeal – it’s the ultimate test of trust between chef and diner.
Foie Gras: Luxury’s Dark Side
Foie gras is seen as a delicacy in some places (looking at you France), but once you know how it is created, you may never view it as such again. If you’re asking yourself, isn’t it just duck or goose liver? The answer is yes, but it’s how the animals are treated and fed that leads to the super fatty liver meat we know as foie gras. This French luxury food item represents one of the most ethically divisive dishes in the world. To create foie gras, young ducks or geese are force-fed in alarming amounts, most likely with feeding tubes inserted into their throats. This overeating leads to the birds’ livers swelling to about eight times the natural size, possibly more. Unfortunately, these force-feeding methods commonly lead to infections and birds that are so heavy they can’t even stand. The resulting liver has a buttery, rich texture that melts on your tongue – but that luxury comes at a cost that many find impossible to swallow. Of course, arguments can be made for its rich, smooth texture and taste, but how it becomes that isn’t for the weak of heart or stomach.
Shark Fin Soup: Ancient Prestige, Modern Problem
In Hong Kong’s most expensive restaurants, a bowl of clear broth with translucent fins can cost hundreds of dollars. Shark fin soup is still considered a delicacy in China and Hong Kong, and shark meat is consumed in other parts of Asia (including India and Japan), Australia, Iceland, and some regions in Africa. But this symbol of wealth and prosperity has become one of the world’s most controversial dishes. Shark finning is illegal in the U.S. and some states have also banned the sale of shark fins, but it’s still traded. (Shark finning is the practice of catching sharks, removing their fins while they’re alive, and releasing them back into the ocean—a cruel act that ends up with sharks ultimately getting eaten by other fish or sinking.) The environmental impact is staggering – The Humane Society International has reported that approximately 72 million sharks are killed for their fins each year. Yet there’s hope: However, there is a popular movement against shark fin soup (85% of surveyed Chinese customers claim they gave up the delicacy in the past ten years) with alternative ingredients increasingly being used for their highly symbolic dish.
Horse Meat: A Tale of Two Continents
Here’s where geography really matters. In Italy, France, Germany, China, and Japan, horse meat is a delicacy used to make many dishes. But come to the English-speaking parts of the world (the U.S., the UK, Australia, and Canada), and you’ll notice a contrasting sentiment to equine dishes: they say neigh. The divide isn’t just about taste – it’s deeply cultural. It is typically seen as a taboo meat primarily because of the role horses have played in many cultures, namely that of worker, pet and companion, as it apparently seems strange to eat one’s companions. In fact, there was a huge scandal in 2013 in Europe when horse meat was found in products labeled 100% beef. Beef burgers, lasagna, and spaghetti bolognese from Tesco, Findus, and Comigel were found to have traces of it. The scandal wasn’t just about mislabeling – it revealed how uncomfortable many Europeans were with eating horse, even unknowingly.
What makes these foods so fascinating isn’t just their unusual ingredients or preparation methods – it’s how they reveal the arbitrary nature of our food boundaries. Today’s delicacy was often yesterday’s survival food, and tomorrow’s taboo might be today’s everyday meal. The world of controversial cuisine reminds us that taste is as much about culture as it is about flavor. So next time you’re offered something that makes you squirm, remember – somewhere in the world, someone considers it the ultimate treat.
