From Peak Fame to Painful Reckoning (Image Credits: Unsplash)
Greenwich Village – The iconic restaurant Babbo on Waverly Place reopened last fall after renovations, blending nostalgic dishes with efforts to distance itself from founder Mario Batali’s scandal-ridden tenure.[1]
From Peak Fame to Painful Reckoning
Babbo launched in 1998 and quickly became a destination for bold Italian fare. Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich built it into a hotspot known for rustic feasts, including offal like lamb’s tongue and generous pasta tastings. Celebrities and food enthusiasts flocked to the carriage house space, drawn by its energetic vibe and innovative menu.
That energy shifted in 2017. Employees reported a sexualized and abusive workplace at Babbo and affiliated spots. Accusations of sexual assault against Batali surfaced, prompting his exit. An investigation by the New York State attorney general followed, culminating in a 2021 settlement where Bastianich’s company paid $600,000 to over 20 victims.[1]
Starr and Ladner Take Charge
Restaurateur Stephen Starr acquired the space from Bastianich last spring. He oversaw a refresh that preserved much of the original look: the Tuscan yellow facade, steep staircase, and cozy dining rooms. Upstairs gained oxblood tones and softer lighting, while downstairs retained white tablecloths and a central wine station.[2]
Starr tapped Mark Ladner for the kitchen. Ladner helped launch Babbo’s original team, later helmed Lupa and earned acclaim at Del Posto with four New York Times stars. After a stint with a fast-casual pasta venture, he returned to revive Babbo’s spirit through regional Italian dishes adapted for New York tastes.[3]
Dishes That Echo and Evolve
The menu nods to Babbo’s hits under a “Babbo Revival” banner. Warm lamb’s tongue appears alongside fried veal sweetbreads and goat-cheese tortelloni with fennel pollen. Ladner’s touch shines in staples like beef-cheek ravioli finished with chicken liver and truffle butter.
Standouts include the massive 100-layer lasagna, a Del Posto carryover priced at $100 for four, layered with Bolognese, marinara, and a caramelized crust. Other highlights feature prawn royal with fregola and artichokes, cavatelli in rabbit ragu, and a veal chop marsala enriched with foie gras and truffles.[2][3]
- 49-day minestrone ($22): Slow-cooked vegetables with Thai basil pesto.
- Braised beef cheek ravioli ($45): Luscious with pan sauce.
- Veal chop marsala ($95): Serves two, balances sweet and savory.
- Linguine vongole: Briny and rich.
- Saffron panna cotta: A classic dessert revival.
Critical Takes and Customer Buzz
Early reviews varied. One critic praised the reboot as superior to post-scandal versions, citing crowd-pleasing creativity without off-putting elements like goat’s head. Service earned nods for being knowledgeable yet relaxed, with a soundtrack of classic rock enhancing the civilized party feel.[2]
Others noted inconsistencies, like altered classics that sometimes missed original intensity. The 87-seat spot draws reservations quickly, focusing on joyful dining over scene-making. Prices reflect fine dining, but portions like the lasagna suit sharing.
Key Takeaways
- Babbo honors its pasta legacy while modernizing under Ladner.
- Scandal history lingers, but new ownership prioritizes fresh starts.
- Rustic Italian shines through revivals like ravioli and lasagna.
Babbo stands at a crossroads, where culinary triumphs test against historical weight. Diners now judge it on plates, not shadows. What do you think of this revival? Share in the comments.
