Oyatte Takes the ‘Farm-to-Table’ Approach With Just One Farm – Image for illustrative purposes only (Image credits: Pixabay)
New York City – A modest townhouse in Murray Hill now houses Oyatte, where chef Hasung Lee draws every ingredient from one upstate farm, marking a deliberate pivot in the farm-to-table movement.[1][2] This intimate spot joins a wave of new restaurants across the city, from Slavic-infused eateries to elevated rooftops, each bringing distinct flavors to neighborhood tables. As spring unfolds, these debuts highlight chefs’ quests for precision and cultural depth amid urban bustle.
Oyatte Commits to One Farm for Seasonal Precision
Chef Hasung Lee, 37, brings credentials from the French Laundry, Atomix, and Gramercy Tavern to his first solo venture at 125 East 39th Street.[1] The restaurant occupies the former Kajitsu space, split across a rustic ground-floor lounge and cozy upstairs dining rooms adorned with wood from a barn on its partner farm.[2] Crown Daisy Farm in Staatsburg, New York – run by former French Laundry head farmer Brett Ellis and pastry chef Rebecca Ellis – supplies all produce, emphasizing seasonality, fermentation, and preservation techniques.
Guests begin downstairs with canapés before ascending for the core tasting menu, priced at $210 with an optional $170 wine pairing.[1] Dishes unfold delicately: textures of radish layered with sake lees crème fraîche, radicchio-perilla marmalade, and Japanese snow crab; cucumber in multiple forms atop smoked eel mousse and Kaviari Kristal caviar; spring green porridge enriched with black truffle and ramps.[2] Bread service features house-made milk bread paired with cultured butter from Vermont’s Animal Farm Creamery, a supplier to elite kitchens like Per Se. Desserts include mugwort ice cream with Meyer lemon gelée and kiwi elements, evoking foraged freshness.
Lee designed the experience to feel like an invitation to an upstate cabin, blending his Korean heritage with global influences. “I want them to feel as if they’re invited to my home,” he said, though he noted his own Queens residence falls short of the elegance.[2] Reservations are available via oyattenyc.com.
Gusi Marries Slavic Traditions with Mediterranean Accents
In Greenwich Village at 432 Avenue of the Americas, Gusi opened its doors, drawing from Eastern European heritage through a lens of Mediterranean refinement.[1][3] Husband-and-wife team Boris Artemyev and Elena Melnikova, New York restaurant veterans, lead the project with chef Galina Bovtun, aiming to unite diverse communities via nostalgic dishes.
The bi-level space features handmade Slavic textiles, vintage mirrors, and murals by an Odesa artist on the upper floor, which overlooks Jefferson Market Library.[3] The menu spotlights borscht variations – duck, porcini, beef and bean, or spicy Roma-style – alongside puff-pastry pierogi and pelmeni dumplings stuffed with goose, elk, or oxtail-tahini blends.[1] House-pickled vegetables and infused vodkas complement the fare, with breakfast plans for the ground floor in the coming months. Contact via 646-370-5413 or gusi.nyc.
Bar Hugo Reclaims SoHo’s Rooftop Heights
Perched on the 19th floor of Hotel Hugo SoHo at 525 Greenwich Street, Bar Hugo relaunches as a year-round destination with Hudson River panoramas.[4] The duplex lounge evokes Venetian glamour through mosaic floors, oak paneling, and curated art, transitioning from daytime refreshment to evening vibrancy.
Small plates encourage sharing: Hugo’s guacamole, hummus with pita, spinach-artichoke dip, sliders, empanadas, and tacos in flavors like spicy or truffle.[4] Cocktails shift with the light, supported by happy hour Monday through Friday from 5 to 7 p.m. Operations run until midnight on weekdays and 2 a.m. on weekends.
More Debuts Enrich the City’s Palette
Beyond these highlights, Queens Tavern arrived at 20 Hudson Yards, channeling English pub culture with Welsh rarebit, Scotch eggs, and Guinness drafts.[1] Caffè Tusk at 7 East 27th Street offers all-day Italian bites, from pastries to lobster linguine. Meanwhile, Iki Sekai Omakase on Second Avenue delivers 14 courses for $85 in 90 minutes, seating 15 nightly.
These spots, from precise tastings to casual counters, underscore New York’s knack for balancing heritage with invention. As diners navigate reservations, the question lingers: which will define the season ahead?
