Hunting for the Rare Thrills of Northern Vietnamese Food? Try Portland. – Image for illustrative purposes only (Image credits: Unsplash)
In the heart of Southeast Portland’s Central Eastside, a modest dining room hums with the quiet precision of handmade rice noodles emerging from the kitchen. This unassuming spot, known as The Paper Bridge, captures the vibrant dualities of Hanoi’s Cầu Giấy district – where sleek skyscrapers meet coal-fired street stalls.[1][2] A husband-and-wife chef team has turned these contrasts into a menu that introduces American diners to lesser-seen dishes from Northern Vietnam.
The Chefs Behind the Bridge
Quynh Nguyen grew up in Hanoi, immersed in family cooking traditions and the city’s bustling wet markets. Her husband, Carlo Reinardy, hails from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, where he began cooking at age 14 out of necessity before pursuing a philosophy degree. The couple met in Vietnam during Reinardy’s kitchen internship; he frequented a beer stall run by Nguyen’s cousins, leading to a family-arranged introduction.[3]
They dated for about a year while living in Hanoi and started dreaming of their own restaurant focused on fresh rice noodles. After five years in Vietnam, the pair embarked on a three-month road trip across the U.S., testing cities like Seattle and San Diego. Portland won them over during a visit to a local farmers market, its casual food scene aligning perfectly with their vision. The Paper Bridge opened in November 2023 at 828 SE Ash Street.[3][4]
Capturing Hanoi’s Cầu Giấy Spirit
The restaurant’s name translates directly from Cầu Giấy, the Hanoi neighborhood where Nguyen was born and where the couple lived while hatching their plans. This district blends wide boulevards and towering skyscrapers with narrow alleyways, street vendors, and pop-up grills serving food on rattan platters. The Paper Bridge imports this essence, embracing the area’s modern-traditional tensions without dilution.[1]
Paper evokes fragility and ephemerality, symbolizing the bridge between cultures and the delicate balance of Hanoi’s cuisine – elegant French-inspired spots alongside decades-old street carts. Diners sit under paper lanterns at low, Hanoi-style tables, evoking the street food vibe amid a lively atmosphere. The menu, spanning 14 pages, dedicates its second half to detailed histories and components of each dish, turning meals into stories.[5][4]
Signature Dishes Rooted in the North
House-made rice noodles form the backbone, crafted fresh daily with varying starches – a laborious, weather-sensitive process rarely seen outside Vietnam. Reinardy noted, “We’re missing this in America… It changes the dish completely.” These springy strands star in classics like bún chả Hà Nội, featuring char-grilled pork in fish sauce broth with papaya, carrots, cold noodles, and fresh herbs for dipping.[3][4]
Pho variations showcase regional depth: Phở Nam Định with three beef cuts in marrow-rich broth; Phở Việt Cao Bằng blending roast duck leg, pork, and duck broth; and the rare phở vit qua Cà Bằng of duck leg and pork, praised for its superb execution. Rolled pho like phở cuốn Tây Hồ wraps tender beef, herbs, and lettuce, while phở chiên phồng offers puffed noodle squares topped with stir-fried beef. Sides such as sautéed or pickled morning glory, crispy quẩy nóng fritters, and housemade fermented chili sauces round out the experience.[5]
- Bún chả Hà Nội: Grilled pork, fish sauce broth, noodles, herbs.
- Phở cuốn vịt quay: Roast duck rolls with soy dipping sauce.
- Quang Ninh-style clams and chả cá lã vọng for groups.
- Griyo pork and enoki mushrooms in pork belly for bold twists.
A Menu That Educates and Elevates
Beyond staples, the selection dives into Northern specialties seldom found in the U.S., from water buffalo jerky and Sapa-style skewers to stuffed five-color sticky rice and whole grilled fish. Small plates like boiled peanuts and fried pork-stuffed glutinous rice cakes encourage sharing in family-style portions. Cocktails incorporate calamansi, complementing the savory depth.[3][5]
The encyclopedic menu provides context, explaining origins and ingredients, which critics have lauded as compelling narratives. One reviewer called the pho a “precision-engineered masterpiece,” highlighting buoyant noodles in rich broths. This approach not only satisfies hunger but immerses guests in Northern Vietnam’s culinary idiosyncrasies, from subtle pickled bamboo to vibrant herb arrays.[5][4]
National Acclaim and Growing Demand
The Paper Bridge earned a spot on The New York Times’ list of America’s 50 best restaurants for 2025, with praise for its handmade noodles and historical menu notes. Reinardy recalled the surprise: “We had a suspicion something was happening… We thought we’d be a blurb about modern Vietnamese cuisine.” As of late 2025, reservations booked out a month and a half ahead, prompting plans to expand staff.[3]
Open Thursday through Monday for lunch and dinner, the restaurant welcomes walk-ins alongside Resy bookings. This recognition underscores how The Paper Bridge expands the narrative of Vietnamese dining in the U.S., spotlighting Northern traditions amid Portland’s diverse scene.
As Nguyen and Reinardy continue to refine their craft, The Paper Bridge stands as a testament to persistence and passion. In bridging Hanoi’s streets to Portland’s tables, they offer not just food, but a portal to a region’s soul – inviting diners to savor the unfamiliar one noodle at a time.
